Chile's Soulful Laberinto Wines Pull 95+ Scores at Less Than $22
Laberinto is without a doubt one of the most exciting producers in Chile. If you have been following our South American wine program, you’ll know that I have dedicated a rather large number of words to the wines of Rafael Tirado, founder of this Maule Valley winery. And, because I am so enthusiastic, I cannot help myself from putting more words towards this cause! I love when a wine/producer/region is so connected ideas and threads that can enrich the experience of a wine. That is what I am looking for. There is so much good wine out there that interesting and delicious beat out just delicious for me, always.
Laberinto is so rich that I almost do not know where to start—almost. Terroir is an incredible place to start. The Laberinto vineyards are near the town of Colbun in the Maule region, not quite 200 miles south. This is a relatively isolated area but known for outdoor recreation more than anything else. This is a land of pre-Andes foothills, conifers, and lakes. In fact, while doing image searches for the winery that is all you see: this is a vineyard that is nestled in a forest overlooking a lake. It is incredibly picturesque, a place to get away and relax. It was in this spirit that Rafael Tirado started this project, and at the heart of it all is a vineyard that was planted as a labyrinth—a metaphor for his project expressing that it is just as important to slow down as it is to grow. Selecting this location was a gamble—there was no history of viticulture in this region. Thirty years into this project, it’s hard to imagine that was ever the case. The mix of volcanic and colluvial soils are well drained and nutrient poor. The mix of exposures, elevations, and soils have proven ideal for the wide range of varieties that Tirado planted here. It is the variety of their terroir, the excellent quality of their winemaking, and the incredible pricing that has put Laberinto on top of the list of must-try producers from Chile—if not the world.
When it comes to the wines of Laberinto, Sauvignon Blanc is the first thing that I think of. It is almost like Sancerre, in that way. The 2023 Laberinto "Cenizas de Laberinto" Sauvignon Blanc Maule Valley $19.99 96TA 95DS has just arrived, and I could not be more excited. There are a lot of places in the world where the classic wines from the region have started to be impacted by changes in the climate, but this wine seems untouched. My mind steers me towards Sancerre because this is another mineral-driven wine. With the Laberinto, the mineral character speaks of mountains and volcanoes rather than limestone and silex. A more appropriate comparison would be to the white wines of Santorini or Etna. This is Sauvignon Blanc though, so Sancerre first. The wine is high-acid and mineral-driven fruit is just ripe and pure. There is very little of the classic green tones that you associate with the variety. Citrus dominates but there is something softer underneath. It finishes long with mineral-laden citrus. It’s a great aperitif if you are an acid head like me, but this wine is meant to be drunk with food—the texture, acid and fruit tones will elevate most dishes.
Some of the best value Pinot Noirs in the world come from Chile. There is not a lot made, but the wines that make it to the U.S. market always prove that their quality exceeds their price point. The 2022 Laberinto "Cenizas de Laberinto" Pinot Noir Maule Valley $21.99 96TA is a perfect example of this. It is high toned. Mixed berries—raspberries, strawberries, and cherries—abound on the nose. Those notes are accentuated by savory herbs from partial whole-cluster fermentation and just a hint of dusty earthy minerals. The delicate, pale color of the wine makes the weight and intensity of the flavors on the palate a surprise. It was aged in large barrels for several months and you can feel the softened edges, but you do not taste the oak. The finish is long and mineral-driven, which allows for the fruit to shine on the back end. Just like the Sauvignon Blanc it would be easy to think French in a comparison, but Mount Etna works too. This Pinot is grown in a special place and was made by a very talented winemaker.
One of the vinous treasures of Chile is Pais. There are vineyards (not vines) that are over 200 years old! Where else in the world?! Now this wine, 2022 Laberinto "Arcillas" Pais Maule Valley $21.99 95TA, is not from one of them, but it shows the growing interest in the variety. Pais is an ideal grape for those who are looking for lighter-bodied red wines, wines with lower alcohol, something that can be chilled, and something a little off the beaten path. This is all of that, and something a little different. Aged in concrete and amphora, the Arcillas’s flavors are a wild mix of red and dark berries, savory herbs, and the earthy mineral edge that all their wines have. This wine feels and tastes more mountain-like than its peers. It is also more polished and less wild than some expressions of Pais from further south. This could be one of the best introductory bottles that I have had of the varietal. Complex, long and delicious.