Nothing beats a tasting at the dining room table of a great grower, especially when that grower is Jean-Baptiste Jacquesson and the dining room looks out onto the vineyards of Troissy in the Marne Valley.
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It is great to be back on the road in Champagne, and last week I visited Vaudemange for the very first time in 23 years of visiting the region. Just southeast of the Grand Cru of Ambonnay, this picturesque part of the region is called La Perle Blanche de la Montagne de Reims, or “the white pearl of the mountain of Reims.” Just below it is Champagne Agricole, with plains of wheat, and it is at the crossroads of the Marne and the Montagne.
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There is no doubt that Nicolas Maillart is among the elite of Champagne’s grower producers, and we have been very lucky to work with him and his wines over the last four years.
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Today's Newsletter gets us back to bubbles in a big way, and not just any bubbles. Champagne buyer Gary Westby and his team have been as busy as ever tracking down the region's best direct-import buys to fill your cellar without breaking the bank. From everyday values to showstopping collectible vintage stunners, our Champagne portfolio is full to the brim with proven performers and new discoveries that with thrill even the most seasoned aficionados.
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This past Monday, I was invited to lunch by Olivier Krug, who was visiting California with his team for the debut of the 2008 Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne. We went to Spruce, in the beautiful Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, and had a great time catching up while enjoying some excellent food and unforgettable Champagne. To call this 2008 release anticipated would be a gigantic understatement—it is one of the very last from this vintage, which I consider the best of my career, and from one of the most important vineyard sites in Champagne.
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Today's Newsletter is the final installment of 2022, and we're ringing out the year with a bang. Our buyers have all pitched in to compile a wide-ranging selection of holiday winners for every palate, price tier, and festive occasion. Without further ado, we'd like to wish you Happy Holidays and all the best over the next few weeks and into the New Year.
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Last night, Clément Calleja of Champagne Billecart-Salmon kicked off our annual staff Champagne Summit with a big bang. He hosted a comprehensive tasting of their line paired with sushi from Kanpai at Cinnamon’s and my home in Menlo Park. The wines were unforgettable.
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Today's Newsletter is an ode to summer in its dog days. Since we all know most of California has plenty of summer left, our buyers reflect on their favorite go-to winners that shine the brightest during the warm weather.
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Usually, when I arrive in Brouillet, we do an extensive vin clair tasting of the last year’s harvest together. Since there was no 2021 to taste, Paul announced that instead we would do a retrospective of better years… And what a lineup he poured! This tasting was a true career highlight for me—each wine was great, and fabulous proof of the longevity that the great terroir of Brouillet is capable of producing in its wines.
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Today I traveled to the very far south of Champagne, in the Aube department to visit my friend Vivien Lamoureux at Champagne J.J. Lamoureux in the beautiful village of Les Riceys. This is the southern tip of Champagne and only three short miles from the departmental border with Burgundy. Here the soil is not the pure white chalk of the Marne area, but rather nearly the same Kimmeridgian clay as in Chablis. Notably, Pinot Noir is king in this area, as Chardonnay buds too early and is at high risk for frost on all but the steepest and most perfectly east-facing sites.
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My new French phrase for my first week in Champagne is “la montre est bonne,” an expression that means “everything looks good right now” for a good vintage in 2022. After the disastrously low yields of 2021, the generous set on the vines now is a site for sore eyes. The vineyards in Champagne are far ahead of schedule, with flowering happening as I type in many places, and the flowers are already here in Sacy, where I took the picture below. A big harvest would do a lot to stabilize Champagne, because currently stocks are low due to a big increase in global demand, the horribly short 2021 harvest, and the self-inflicted wound of tight yield limits in 2020.
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Today I drove over to La Petite Montagne to visit Frédérique and Hughes in the village of Sacy. They own 15 acres of vineyard in this village as well as 20 acres in the villages of Chigny-les-Roses, Rilly-la-Montagne, and Ludes. They split their production between Sacy vines, which include the historic Jany Poret name, and the rest, which are just called Duménil to respect the two separate families that became one when they married. All their wines are entirely 1er Cru, stainless-steel-fermented, and of exceptional quality. They have been members of the association “Special Club” since 2010, and, like all the others in this group, are in the top echelon of grower Champagne.
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