A Tale of Three Thanksgivings... And Their Wines
Thanksgiving is still one of my favorite holidays. It is one of the few times where I am able to see most of my extended family all in one place. It is also one of the few gatherings where I am not called upon to contribute a dish or cook a whole meal for everyone. My cost of admission: just a few bottles of wines to share at the table. But, I do love to cook so I was also an early adopter of Friendsgiving. For many years, I have been hosting them at my home (or at friends’ homes) where I prepare a meal. I usually plan a themed meal around my Friendsgiving since I already get to do all the traditional stuff on regular Thanksgiving. I always deconstruct turkeys for my Friendsgivings and make a variety of dishes using various turkey parts. I always make a turkey Bolognese and have made other things like tom kha gai turkey soup or a turkey paitan ramen (that’s like Tonkotsu ramen but with a creamy turkey broth). I even served turkey stuffing gyoza as an appetizer for the ramen dinner! Last year, I did a brunch themed Friendsgiving which I now call Brunch-giving—maybe it will stick.
Thanksgiving Number One is a revival of last year’s Brunch-giving. It was so popular that we decided to go again. Ideally, I would use leftovers from Thanksgiving; but this year, we are doing it before the real holiday. I have two big knockout dishes that we build the brunch around. The first is a turkey hash—which uses turkey thigh confit and roasted potatoes and Brussels sprouts. I confit the turkey in duck fat (sous vide) and then I shred that with the potatoes and sprouts adding some seasoning and stock. Then I bake it in the oven until it gets crispy. Some poached eggs to go on top of course. Second, is turkey and waffles. First, I sous vide a turkey breast, then slice it thin and drape it over the waffle (which is made of leftover stuffing). Then gravy and cranberry maple syrup to drizzle over it all. It’s so yummy and one of the best tricks I have learned over the years. A waffle iron is necessary, but you can pick up a cheap reliable one online.
There will be other things of course: salads, fruit, creamy sweet potatoes, and, of course, wine. Since this is brunch, and this group will comprise more drinkers than enthusiasts, I will queue up some of my favorite values in my sections. I will start with some sparkling wines and my favorite go-to right now is the Maison Laudacius "Laudacius" Brut Nature Montlouis Methode Traditionnnelle $17.99 97DC. It is 100% Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley region known as Montlouis-sur-Loire. This region sits just across the river from Vouvray but has the same type of soils and a long history of sparkling wine production. The “Laudacius” is dry and crisp in texture and filled with lovely roasted apple and pear notes. It has a delicious brioche component, nodding at a Champagne profile but for a fraction of the price.
For white, I will serve up one of my favorite Muscadets in the store right now. The 2023 Domaine des Amoureux Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie $11.99 91JS is a superb aperitif. Cheap and cheerful, this crunchy white has party written all over it with aromas of citrus, wet stone, a kiss of salinity and green apples. This is an easy wine to pair with a panoply of foods and should go nicely with the cheese board and some of the dips that will start our brunch off.
And for red, I love a good Cabernet Franc with my turkey. The 2022 Domaine les Pins "Les Rochettes" Bourgueil $13.99 92WE is a satisfying treat. Flavors of cherry, strawberry, crushed thyme, and rose petals are surrounded by a silky texture. This wine shows so much character for its humble price and is a nice alternative to Pinot Noir.
Thanksgiving Number Two is the traditional affair. Here I will gather with family and a few orphan friends at my aunt’s house. We’ll have the traditional roasted bird with mashed potatoes, gravy, and all the other trimmings. Since I am not cooking for this event, I tend to up my wine game here and bring out some bigger guns to share with company. I usually start with a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé for a crisp white to go with appetizers. This year, I will bring the 2023 Domaine des Côtes Blanches (Nicolas Millet) Sancerre $22.99 91WE 90WS. This new arrival is made by Nicolas Millet in the village of Bué, surrounded by some of the best terroir in Sancerre. The name Côtes Blanches refers to the white hills infused with chalky clay-limestone soil on which the vines are planted. This Sauvignon Blanc is filled with tense minerality and has a lip-smacking apple, melon, and orange peel profile. It is racy and delicious. It is one of the best of its kind on the shelf and still well below market price for comparable Sancerre.
I also will up my game in the realm of Cabernet Franc–based wines and will be drinking the 2022 Bernard Baudry "Les Grézeaux" Chinon $27.99 94+JG. This import from Kermit Lynch is from one of THE gold standard producers in Chinon. It has notes of rosemary, black cherry, currants, and violets. It screams “drink me with turkey and stuffing!” The mix of Cab Franc flavors with savory top notes and a medium-bodied, supple texture make it one of the best turkey pairings outside of Beaujolais. I am also so happy to see how much my family has embraced Cabernet Franc. Most of them would lean into a Napa Cab if given the opportunity, but when I open a Loire Valley Cab Franc at Thanksgiving, it is always one of the first wines to disappear from the table.
Since there is always demand for bigger reds, I will bring a Châteauneuf-du-Pape as a closer. We have so many great options right now, but I am leaning heavily into the 2019 Château Gigognan "Clos du Roi" Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.99 95WE 93WS 93JD 93JS. This saturated red has that gorgeous roasted fruit flavor that makes wines from the Châteauneuf region so special. Oodles of blackberry, plum, and cherry merge with flavors of bittersweet chocolate, tar, and new saddle leather. This is rich and long but never heavy and overextracted. I am so glad we have this direct import connection because Gigognan’s wines have never disappointed.
Finally, Thanksgiving Number Three, another Friendsgiving. For those that have read my Holiday Reports in the past (and as I alluded to earlier), they know that one of my favorite Thanksgiving Holiday traditions is to deconstruct a turkey and serve it in various forms. That’s how Brunch-giving (I’m committed to this expression!) came into being. Each year, I always try to do something new. Often this more intimate dinner is based on my travels or current cooking obsessions. This year, I have been exploring Yakitori—chicken skewers grilled over Japanese charcoal. I have had at least half a dozen Yakitori dinners this year and do test runs at home just for myself. It has been a real learning experience breaking down chickens and turning them into various skewers based on all the different but often overlooked muscle groups in a bird. Well, turkey—it is your turn! I will host a few close friends for this, doing skewers based on turkey breast, tenders, thighs, wings, and Tsukune (chicken meatballs) made from the leg meat. Since we will be a smaller group, I like to bring out the bigger guns with lots of complexity. I think some sparkling wine from the Jura is in order here. The 2020 Domaine des Ronces Brut Cremant du Jura $29.99 is a new arrival made from 100% Chardonnay. It spends about two years on the lees before disgorgment and less than 3 g/L of dosage. This is complex and intriguing. It will go nicely with some pickled vegetables and light snacks as the guests sit down.
I usually open with the white meat skewers. A mix of shiso-wrapped tenders and breast meat with negi (green onions). I am going to lean into some classy Chenin Blanc. One of the best in the store right now is the 2022 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups "Clos de Mosny" Montlouis-sur-Loire $39.99 94VN. This parcel comes from a clay-flint based soil so the wine has a smoky Meursault-like quality. Flavors of apple, Anjou pear, and baking spices make for an incredibly satisfying white.
The dark meat skewers and the Tsukune may call for red wine, so I will shift gears and go for a heartier red. Back to Châteauneuf—but not just any Châteauneuf. This is one of the most exciting new arrivals, and it has its own unique story. The 2022 Domaine Benedetti "Statera" Cinsault Châteauneuf-du-Pape $59.99 is one of the most singular reds I have tasted out of the region this year. This wine is 100% Cinsault all from old vines from a small parcel. Aged in amphora it is Châteauneuf, but with lift, perfume and an X factor that draws you in and compels you to revisit your glass. The Tsukune will be finished with a little tare (a sweet and savory soy sauce concoction) that should bring the whole thing home.