Vielle Vignes Cabernet Franc from Joël Taluau comes from a single plot planted in 1934, so when they say “old vines,” they aren't just joshing around. These are wines that are made with high tannin and high acid to lay down and age in their air-conditioned cellar for decades. These are wines that are crafted to be aged longterm, bottled and then not touched or moved until they're ready to be released. I don't know the story of how Keith found these wines, but we are so fortunate that we have these. Thanks to their singular nature, there's nothing else quite like it in our store.
Read MoreAsk a sommelier what they drink on their day off and more often than not, the answer is the Loire Valley. Why? Exceptional value, deep history, incredible diversity, and food-pairing perfection. From crisp Muscadet to age-worthy Chenin Blanc and soulful Cabernet Franc, the Loire delivers serious pedigree without the pretense—or the price tag. Below, you’ll find some of our most exciting discoveries, from under-the-radar gems to cellar-worthy icons.
Read MoreTucked away in the northwest corner of the Loire Valley, west of the Gallic town of Vendôme, lie 27 communes dotted along the southern banks of the Loir River that comprise the AOC Coteaux du Vendômois, 120 hectares of flinty, sandy soils bursting with the region’s “rare and ancient native variety” Pineau d’Anuis, plus Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Chardonnay.
Read MoreIn the Loire, the conversation almost always starts with Sauvignon Blanc—Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon. They are popular, and they are great. But Chenin Blanc is just as noble, and honestly, it deserves a lot more attention than it gets. The range of styles, the variety of terroirs, the sheer versatility make it one of the most exciting white grapes out there, especially when grown in the Loire.
Read MoreWhen people think of Cabernet Franc, they often default to Bordeaux or New World versions—ripe, plush, sometimes oaked... sometimes too much oak. But my favorite expressions come from the Loire Valley, where Cab Franc sheds the excess and takes on something more honest: earthy, floral, fresh-fruited, savory, and deeply connected to place.
Read MoreLike what happened in Beaujolais with its crus, Muscadet began highlighting specific geological zones capable of producing wines with aging potential. The first three—Clisson, Le Pallet, and Gorges—set the tone, and now there are ten official crus. These wines are aged longer on the lees (usually 17–30 months, depending on the cru), and they offer a completely different experience from the classic sur lie style. The best of them are structured, mineral, and textured—serious wines hiding behind a humble name.
Read MoreThis week Keith Mabry, who probably has one of the most diverse buying portfolios at K&L, poured some amazing wines from the Loire Valley for us. We tasted 26 different wines this morning, done at the usual breakneck pace due to the 45 minutes we have to do the tasting. Now, while I say 45 minutes, we're definitely able to go back to the wines through the day and sometimes even the next day and retaste. This lets us see how they're evolving, so our time with the wine is not merely confined to that quick little jaunt in the morning.
Read MoreAnthony Girard remains one of my favorite "characters" in Sancerre. Years ago, he struck out on his own, leaving the family domaine to create La Clef du Récit in the southern part of the appellation. The name, which translates to “the key to the story,” is intriguingly ambiguous—there’s no castle here, despite the imagery. But maybe it’s more about the keys to his own imaginative mind-palace… which brings us back to that "character" part.
Read MoreI love to cook so I was also an early adopter of Friendsgiving. For many years, I have been hosting them at my home (or at friends’ homes) where I prepare a meal. I usually plan a themed meal around my Friendsgiving since I already get to do all the traditional stuff on regular Thanksgiving. I always deconstruct turkeys for my Friendsgivings and make a variety of dishes using various turkey parts. I always make a turkey Bolognese and have made other things like tom kha gai turkey soup or a turkey paitan ramen (that’s like Tonkotsu ramen but with a creamy turkey broth). I even served turkey stuffing gyoza as an appetizer for the ramen dinner! Last year, I did a brunch themed Friendsgiving which I now call Brunch-giving—maybe it will stick.
Read MoreRecently I had the great pleasure to meet Jacky Blot. I have long been a fan of his wineries, Domaine Taille Aux Loups and Domaine de la Butte, when their wines were presented to me well over a decade ago. They represent an outsider's spirit in an emerging region, and he has been one of the pioneers to make a sustainable impact on elevating these appellations to greatness. Last Monday I was incredibly saddened to hear of his passing. If you’re not familiar with his wines, now more than ever is the time to discover themfor yourself.
Read MoreToday's Newsletter is Loire Buyer Keith Mabry's travel diary, so to speak. Having just returned from the region, he's full of fresh insight and enthuisasm for an incredibly broad and diverse range of expressions, starting with a trio of standouts from Keith's many visits while he was on the road. Our direct-import Loire producers are firing on all cylinders, showcasing the reference-point class of Loire Sauvignon Blanc. Hidden-gem regions provide unbeatable value (and longevity) for jaw-dropping bargains, and Keith pays a long-awaited visit to an all-time favorite visionary in an up-and-coming appellation.
Read MoreThe wait is over: customer tastings are back! As we head into the end of 2022, we are celebrating with a full roster of tastings, with lineups that reach high into the top shelf. All tastings are walk in, with details when you click through to this post.
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