A Wealth of Riches on Our Australian Wine Shelves

Last June, I had the extraordinary opportunity to explore the Australian wine country, searching for the next wave of exceptional wines that deserve a place on the shelves at K&L. I was not only impressed by the quality of the wines I tasted but also surprised by the sheer number of producers crafting exquisite artisanal wines that had never been imported to the United States.

However, Australia's wine industry was facing a significant challenge at the time: a series of harsh tariffs imposed by the Chinese government. With China grappling with an oversupply of domestic wine, tariffs on Australian wine were set so high that they effectively halted exports overnight. This was particularly detrimental since China had quickly become the largest export market for Australian wine.

The impact of these tariffs over the past two years has been severe for Australia. Two billion liters of unsold wine remain in tanks, and 15% of the country's vineyards were uprooted last year. Although the tariffs have recently been relaxed, the damage to the Australian wine market has been extensive.

What does this mean for K&L customers? During my trip, I found that the majority of producers were highly motivated to establish their brands in the United States as an alternative to the Chinese market. Every producer I met was eager to be featured on American shelves, which gave me the opportunity to secure some of the finest wines exclusively for K&L customers.

This week, we’re excited to introduce some of these new and intriguing Australian producers. From the remote Frankland River region in Western Australia, we are thrilled to present Swinney wines to the U.S. for the first time. These are cellar-worthy collectibles that aren’t available in Australia without being on their mailing list. We’re also excited to announce the return of Sons of Eden, the brainchild of master winemaker Corey Ryan and renowned viticulturist Simon Cowham, to K&L shelves after a six-year hiatus. From the heart of the Barossa, we have an impressive lineup of wines from Lienert, including their exceptional Roussanne, which you have to taste to believe. Finally, we have Austin’s of Geelong, a value-oriented producer known for one of the best $15 Pinot Noirs available. Stay tuned over the next few days as I write more about each of these exciting producers. I’m eager to share these wines with you.

But before we dive into our new imports, I’d like to highlight a shipment from one of our oldest Direct Import Producers: Oakridge. For me, no other producer at K&L delivers such high quality at its price point. In the Yarra Valley, Oakridge and Giant Steps are the leading producers, both crafting artisanal, single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. By importing Oakridge directly, we can offer their Local Vineyard Series wines for $25, while Giant Steps’ prices range from $50 to $75. Now that’s value. Here are some of the new wines that will redefine your expectations of quality and value.

The Willowlake Vineyard, located deep in the east of the Upper Yarra, is one of the region's top sites. With a northern-facing, gently sloping aspect, it ensures ripeness in this otherwise cool grape-growing area. The 2022 Oakridge "Willowlake Vineyard" Chardonnay Yarra Valley Victoria $24.99 96JH 96JS is a beautifully crafted wine with core flavors of peach and apricot, complemented by nuanced marzipan notes. Its stunning acidity brings a brilliant, zesty, and bright character, focusing its medium-weight, creamy texture. The 2021 Oakridge "Willowlake Vineyard" Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Victoria $24.99 97JH 96BC mirrors the balance and weight of Burgundy but retains the fruit expression and power of New World Pinot Noir. Red berry fruit mingles with earthy forest floor notes, presenting a beautiful expression of Oakridge’s power and finesse.

As much as I appreciate these wines, the wines from Henk Vineyard captivate me even more. To my knowledge, no vineyard in the Upper Yarra matches the quality of this tiny vineyard. During my visit to Australia last year, I drove four hours, accumulating multiple speeding tickets, just to make my appointment with the vineyard. Sipping a glass of the 2021 Oakridge "Henk Vineyard" Chardonnay Yarra Valley Victoria $24.99 96JH 96JS 95BC right where it was grown remains an unforgettable experience. The wine exemplifies what Yarra Valley Chardonnay can achieve. While the Willowlake Chardonnay has a more weighty and creamy texture, the Henk Chardonnay emphasizes levity and tension. Its aromatic profile features delicate notes of lemon zest and tangerine, with a subtle honeyed nose, contrasted by a flinty, Meursault-like edge and a hint of jasmine. Medium-bodied, the palate is dominated by citrus, followed by white peach undertones, culminating in a marzipan finish. Its dynamic nature, with building power and a persistent razor’s edge of acidity, sets it apart.

The 2021 Oakridge "Henk Vineyard" Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Victoria $24.99 96BC 96JH is more sinewy than the Willowlake Pinot Noir but not lacking in fruit. It showcases a beautiful blend of red and black fruit, floral notes, and a hint of spice. When a customer recently asked me which California region resembles Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, I pointed to my favorite region: the Santa Cruz Mountains. Yarra Valley Pinot Noir combines structure and grace, balanced fruit expression, and distinctive acidity.

Lastly, we’re fortunate to have a small allocation of the 2021 Oakridge "864 Henk Aquaduct" Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Victoria $49.99 95WA. This single block, perfectly situated mid-slope for ideal drainage, is named for the subterranean aqueduct running through the vineyard’s red, volcanic soils. It retains all the hallmarks of the standard Henk offering but offers even more depth and complexity. Built for aging, it features black fruit expression with a rigid structure, making it a cellar-worthy bottle that will show its best in a few years.

I can’t wait for you to experience these remarkable wines. Stay tuned this week as we explore more of our exciting new arrivals.

- Thomas Smith, K&L Australian Wine Buyer