Le Piane: Reviving Alto Piemonte’s Forgotten Vineyards
Have you ever tried an Alpine Nebbiolo? Though you may associate Italy’s Piemonte region with Barolo and Barbaresco, it actually covers a large area expanding all the way to the Swiss border. Alto Piemonte is a wine region nestled along that border, in the most remote part of Piedmont. The most famous villages, just to name a few, are Boca, Lessona, Gattinara, Bramaterra, and Ghemme. You also find wine from the Coste delle Sesia Nebbiolo, a local “Langhe Nebbiolo”–style wine. Le Piane, located in Boca, is for me the best place to start discovering the beautiful Alto Piemonte. It is one of the most exciting wineries in this region, and I love the story behind it.
When I met with Christoph Kunzli, a Swiss-born winemaker, I immediately understood why these wines are so special. He told me the at the beginning of the 1990s he randomly tried the wines of Le Piane and found himself completely in love. He decided to buy the winery on the spot, moving his entire life to the Italian Alps. This was a bold move since the region wasn’t nearly as famous as it is now. I have to say, it is also thanks to Christoph that Alto Piemonte is living a second life.
Christoph had a vision to restore Boca’s abandoned vineyards and highlight the potential of its unique volcanic terroir. Christoph’s approach to winemaking is really simple, only spontaneous fermentation without temperature control is used and everything is made by hand in super small batches. “The style of my wine has always been clear,” says Kunzli. “Big barrels, long aging.” These are wines that will make you think about how much wine is interconnected with nature. It is a beautiful thing.
Boca DOC: A Unique Terroir for Nebbiolo
Funnily enough, Boca was once considered one of the most import appellations in Italy. But it was abandoned in the 1900s in favor of a regional industrialization that promised prosperity to the work class of this area. Today, it stands as one of the smallest appellations in Italy, with only about 15 hectares under vine, but the small amount of wines they produce are fantastic.
What makes this region so exciting and really different from Barolo is the soil composition. Boca’s volcanic soils, primarily composed of porphyry rock, set it apart from the limestone-based Barolo and Barbaresco. These mineral-rich soils, combined with Boca’s high-altitude vineyards (450-550m) and a cool Alpine climate, result in high-acid, intensely structured Nebbiolo wine with a tad more minerality than you would expect from a Nebbiolo based wine.
Also, since the Nebbiolo in this area tends to not be generous in color when macerated, it is tradition to blend Nebbiolo with the local grape Vespolina, a native grape that adds spice, freshness, and floral aromatics, enhancing Nebbiolo’s complexity. Vespolina on its own is so cool, it’s spicy on the nose has white peppercorn and it’s vibrant like a true Alpine grape should be. At Le Piane, Vespolina is used not only to further overall complexity but also to increase the acidity levels of the wine. While unmistakably a Nebbiolo-based wine, Boca, as crafted by Kunzli, has a more supple, elegant feel to it than a typical Barolo.
The Wines of Le Piane
We are excited to offer you a vertical of this magic producer. If you like Barolo and Barbaresco. This is one of the coolest things that you can try, and it is uncommon to see so many vintages next to each other:
Le Piane 'Piane'
1984 Le Piane Boca $199.99
1990 Le Piane Boca $199.99
1991 Le Piane Boca $179.99
2004 Le Piane Boca $139.99
2005 Le Piane Boca $129.99
2006 Le Piane Boca $129.99
2007 Le Piane Boca (1.5L) $249.99
2007 Le Piane Boca (3L) $499.99
2008 Le Piane Boca $139.99
2009 Le Piane Boca $119.99
2010 Le Piane Boca $129.99
2010 Le Piane Boca (1.5L) $299.99
2012 Le Piane Boca $99.99
2013 Le Piane Boca $99.99
2016 Le Piane Boca (1.5L) $249.99
2017 Le Piane Boca $77.99
2017 Le Piane Boca (1.5L) $229.99
2018 Le Piane Boca (1.5L) $259.99
2019 Le Piane Boca $84.99
A Bold Expression of Croatina
While Nebbiolo is the star of Boca, Croatina has long played a key role in the region’s wine culture. The 'Piane' is made entirely from old-vine Croatina, highlighting the intensity and rustic charm of this variety. This wine is dark, rich, and full-bodied with a distinct earthy and spicy profile.
2018 Le Piane 'Le Piane' Croatina $49.99
- Orazio Campoli, K&L Italian Wine Buyer