What Would Greg Drink: The Reds

Tuscany

Tuscany holds so many well-known wines and wineries that it is always more of a challenge to bring you something new; but if I cannot do that, then you can’t go wrong with the tried and true! The 2022 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Rosso di Montalcino $22.99 is the perfect introduction to Sangiovese for folks who have not had much of it before. Wines that are 100% Sangiovese can be a bit acidic, but this wine is full of richly textured, sweet, ripe fruit that still shows balance but has a super easy drinkability to it. Priced as a no brainer, grab a couple for the in-laws, they will love it. The Rosso’s big brother is the 2019 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino $74.99, one of the best vintages in recent history, my personal preference since the 1999 vintage. The soil where this wine is grown is called Terra Rossa, the red soil on Montalcino’s south face. When grown in this soil, the fruit is exuberant, warm, supple, and delicious—but in this spectacular vintage, the fruit has a core that gives the wine direction and length without losing that supple sweetness. It’s a super wine.

I have one nagging issue with my tenure as Italian Buyer at K&L, and it is that I did not get on the bandwagon for this winery earlier and buy much more. The 2019 Castello di Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino $64.99 is mind-numbingly good; for me it exhibits the perfect nose for Sangiovese in Montalcino. When you put your nose in this glass, an array of umami-laden aromatics—porcini dust, salted plum, oyster shell—envelops your senses. On the palate the wine could not be a better example of how Sangiovese should feel in your mouth. The central core of fruit is wild cherry underlined by hints of Tuscan herbs and an ethereal feel. Superb length, finish…. There is not a better Brunello out there than this.

When in search of high-quality Chianti Classico I always look for an Irish winemaker—kidding aside, Sean O’Callaghan makes a fantastic wine. The one-time Riecine winemaker has a new project, the 2021 Carleone Chianti Classico $34.99, and you won’t find a better Chianti Classico than this. It shows stunning richness, balance, and drinkability. Get it now, it won’t last long! It’s one of the best wines I have seen from Radda in a while.

Panzano in Chianti is a wonderful little village and is host to an array of Chianti Classico’s most famous producers. The 2020 Le Fonti Chianti Classico $21.99 is classic Panzano. It has enough richness to balance Sangiovese’s acidity while not interfering with the balance. 2020 is a riper vintage, but the acidic core balances the richness into a complete wine—what a deal. The 2021 Le Cinciole Chianti Classico $21.99 is a stunningly good bottle of Chianti Classico. When I first put my nose in the glass I was overcome, such complexity in the aromatics, and then on the palate I was even more pleased—such balance, leading to an extremely long finish. This is a wonderful wine at an extremely good price. The most famous of Panzano Producers has to be Fontodi, and their 2020 Fontodi Chianti Classico $39.99 does not disappoint. This wine is famous for its richness and varietal purity, and in the 2020 vintage, Fontodi is nothing but a pleasure to drink. Classic aromas highlighted by hints of wild cherry and leather have me thinking of when I can grill something to go with this, my mouth is watering already.

Sicily

I’m hopping from Tuscany down to Sicily with a super drinkable Etna Rosso, the 2021 Theresa Eccher "Passione" Etna Rosso $26.99. This is a great introduction to Etna wines, easy drinking yet still faithful to the grape varieties. It’s perfect to accompany roast chicken or grilled salmon.

Still on Etna, one of the most amazing red wines I have ever had from this dramatic region is the 2020 Paolo Caciorgna "N'Anticchia" Etna Rosso $74.99. Situated at over 2400 feet in elevation, the vineyard sits in volcanic sands where these pre-Phylloxera vines produce fruit with such varietal integrity, it is impressive. Extraordinarily complex nose with aromas that hit you in wave after wave of fruit, spice, and soil. It offers a flavor spectrum that takes your breath away. This wine, of all the wines in this article, is the one you should experience.

Piedmont

Last but not least we head back up to Piedmont. I cannot help saying Piedmont without looking for a fork, because these wines are so intermingled with the food culture and embarrassment of good restaurants in the region. I should start writing before I get too hungry. Barbera is everywhere in Piedmont, and its acidic core is a perfect foil for the region’s rich foods. Barbera from Asti is more acidic, brighter, and crisper than its Alba counterpart while still showing a rich body. The 2021 Castello di Perno Barbera d'Asti $22.99 is made by a winery I have just come to know over the last few years, as they are a new producer. This wine is the definition of Asti Barbera for me—wiry, juicy, sweet, and tart with savory flavors not sticky fruits. It’s the perfect wine for cream pasta—trust me on this one. Then from Serralunga, the most powerful of communes in Barolo, comes the 2023 Massolino Barbera d'Alba $22.99. Made in a distinctive style, this is less exuberant and less acidic but with more depth. It’s a wine showing more complexity, intrigue, and power. Not that it does not taste like Barbera, but it is just a more muscular cousin to its Asti counterpart. Serve this with meat sauce pasta. Our third Barbera interpretation is the 2022 Bricco Ciarla Barbera d'Alba Superiore $25.99, made by a producer from Barbaresco that is new to our shelves. The wine shows a distinctive brightness that doesn’t come off as acidic. Unlike the muscular Massolino, it is suave and coquettish, flashing hints of sweet fruit while holding back a bit of power. This wine for me is best with grilled meat.

Nebbiolo, the most famous of grape varietals in Piedmont, has a multitude of faces. One of the most interesting you can try comes from the far western edge of Piedmont at the foot of the French Alps: the 2020 Produttori di Carema Carema Classico $29.99. I love this wine. Its pale, see-through color reminds me of what Nebbiolo used to look like, with the ethereal aromatics of leather, rose, and porcini. The wine is extremely graceful, supple on the palate, and it gives you a warm feeling making you want to drink glass after glass. This limited production wine is in stock now so buy it now—this will be your last shot! Another wine from Bricco Ciarla, the 2022 Bricco Ciarla "Treviglie" Langhe Nebbiolo $25.99 is a blend of fruit vineyards from two of the three Barbaresco communes—Treiso and Neive—and that is the source of the Treviglie name. The wine is forward, showing lots of easy-drinking fruit and is softer than most others of its ilk. It’s wonderful with a piece of Toma.

The next two Nebbiolo are from Barolo. The 2020 Castello di Perno Langhe Nebbiolo $29.99 has high-toned aromatic profile, more in the legendary tar and roses fashion. It’s elegant and wispy. While on the palate the wine still says Monforte d’Alba with hints of tannic grip but all is in balance. A perfect porcini risotto wine. I was incredibly impressed with the 2021 Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo $29.99. I have had Barolo not as interesting as this wine! Aged in 50hl Slavonian oak barrels that adds to its authenticity, it drinks like a young Barolo. It is so exceptionally well balanced and has years left of good drinking if you wanted to age for another decade. I would have this with Brasato al Barolo or a good pot roast!

One of the most startlingly good Barolo I have had in awhile, the nose just jumps out at you. I have tasted their upper-level wines, which are twice the price, and I did not think they were anywhere near as good as this 2019 Giovanni Rosso "Serralunga d'Alba" Barolo $64.99. This wine cries out for time, I don’t mean you have to age it for another decade, although it will easily age that long. But, no: it requires contemplation, time with you and the glass, just absorbing the aromatics and the flavors. You need time to really dive in because there is so much in this wine. I love this wine, one of the most well balanced and expressive young Barolo I have had in a long time. Buy yourself a bottle and a chunk of aged Parmigiano Reggiano, and just hang out together for an evening. You will love it.

- Greg St. Clair, K&L Italian Wine Buyer… for now!