Anthony Girard – A Sancerre Original
Anthony Girard remains one of my favorite "characters" in Sancerre. Years ago, he struck out on his own, leaving the family domaine to create La Clef du Récit in the southern part of the appellation. The name, which translates to “the key to the story,” is intriguingly ambiguous—there’s no castle here, despite the imagery. But maybe it’s more about the keys to his own imaginative mind-palace… which brings us back to that "character" part.
Some of my most memorable visits to Anthony’s winery have had little to do with tasting wine—and everything to do with his off-the-wall ideas and spontaneous adventures. On my first visit nearly a decade ago, we didn’t do a formal tasting at all. Instead, we ate goat cheese from his brother’s farm (while sampling a vertical of his Sancerre) and played a version of pétanque he’d invented using tools from his garage. That’s how you get to know the person behind the wine.
My favorite visit was just a couple of years ago, when we took a “side quest” into a nearby forest to collect newly bloomed daisies for his daughter’s school project (his idea). That same trip, we swung by the goat farm again to visit the pregnant goats (my idea). These visits are unpredictable in the best way.
Despite his whimsical nature, Anthony’s wines are always laser-focused.
We have two new wines that have just arrived from Anthony. The new 2023 La Clef du Récit Sancerre $25.99 has that bright tension and is full of chalky minerality. It’s laced with grapefruit zest and electric acidity, giving it serious drive and precision. The 2023 vintage really shines through with the clarity and vibrancy of this wine.
Anthony actually owns some plots just outside the appellation including Menetou-Salon and this Quincy bottling, newly arrived. The 2023 Domaine la Clef du Récit Quincy $19.99 is from the sandier soils off the Cher River about 45 minutes west of Sancerre. Still made with 100% Sauvignon Blanc, this is a charming wine that shows more white flowers, peach notes, and light apple tones. There is lots of minerality, but the wine has more finesse on the palate.
Anthony’s wines remain some of our best and brightest from the region. And while the wines are a joy to drink, exploring Anthony’s mind is almost as fun as drinking what it creates.
