Spanish Wines from the Catalan Coast
Priorat
Priorat, like so many classic regions in Spain and beyond, is having a renaissance. Though once known for rich, extracted wines with big points to match, many new winemakers on the scene are harvesting earlier and fermenting the wines more gently, avoiding any harsh over-extraction of tannins. For many winemakers, the oak has also been slowly dialing back, allowing the Garnacha and Cariñena to shine through. In this area not far inland from the Mediterranean coast, the summers are warm and dry, and the rocky rugged landscape forces old vines to dig deep. As opposed to inland regions like Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the resulting wines have complex and concentrated fruit character, balanced by a mineral-driven, almost garrigue-like note and elegant, slightly dusty tannins.
2022 Terroir al Limit Terroir Históric Blanc Priorat $29.99 92JS 92WA
2022 Alvaro Palacios "Les Terrasses" Priorat $44.99 93-95 WA 93JS 93WA
2021 Clos Mogador "Gratallops" Vi de Finca Priorat $99.99 98DC 98WA 97JS 97VN
2021 Familia Nin-Ortiz "Planetes - Classic" Priorat $39.99 96WA
2019 Terroir al Limit Terroir Históric Negre Priorat $34.99 93JS 92WA
2019 Mas d'en Gil "Bellmunt" Priorat $32.99 92WA
Cava
Located along the Mediterranean coast just south of Barcelona, Penedès, and Tarragona is the heart of Cava wine production in Spain. Cava is an elegant sparkling wine that is made in the same traditional method as Champagne, with a secondary fermentation in bottle and extended aging before disgorgement. Many of the best producers exceed the aging minimums set by the appellation, often besting even their counterparts in Champagne. In recent years, a small group of winemakers left the Cava D.O. voluntarily, instead choosing to label their wines “Corpinnat” as an indication of their location in the historical heart of Penedès as well as their commitment to organic viticulture and thoughtful winemaking. (We also can’t forget about Raventos, also located in the heart of Penedes, who likewise have abandoned labelling as Cava for the even more specific region of “Conca del Riu Anoia”!) Wine politics aside, what all these areas and wineries feature is a unique expression of traditional-method sparkling wine, influenced by cooling effects of the nearby Mediterranean, which is only about 10-15 miles away. These wines also present some of the best values on the market, with history, terroir and extended aging all available at incredibly reasonable prices. With fantastic concentration and mouthwatering acidity, these are my current top picks for Spanish sparkling wines.
Vinícola de Nulles Adernats Brut Nature Reserva Cava $17.99
2019 Recaredo "Terrers" Brut Nature Corpinnat $38.99 94WA
2017 Mas Candí Penedés "Indomable" Brut Nature Corpinnat $29.99 (Elsewhere $45) 92PG
2021 Can Descregut Brut Nature Corpinnat $21.99
2022 Raventós i Blanc "de Nit" Rosé Conca del Riu Anoia $25.99 95DC
2022 Raventós i Blanc "Blanc de Blancs" Brut Conca del Riu Anoia $22.99 92WA
- Rachael Ryan, K&L Spanish Wine Buyer