Pessac, Right Bank, and Some 2023 Revelations

I’ll have to admit, and have received feedback as such, that I’ve often been a bit too cynical about the vintage at hand, or the market conditions that challenge the primeur campaign. Perhaps I’m just trying to make sure producers share our stress and reduce their prices. It’s also a tough position to be in–we’re dropped into the middle of the action for a brief week, being pulled in many directions. Avoiding the stress of it is like landing in the middle of a storm and trying to ignore the wind. But today, we’re starting to slow down, and perhaps it is time to focus on some of the bright spots from the last few days.

A Bordeaux Rollercoaster: The 2023 Vintage

Being one of the most elastic markets in the world of fine wine, Bordeaux can be a bit of a rollercoaster from year to year. But as opposed to waiting in line for the thrill ride, the U.S. consumer has recently had the luxury of getting on the ride whenever they want. The question now is whether Bordeaux has an experience that’s exciting enough for folks to line up for, if they can capture the attention of new thrill seekers, or if the ride itself is outdated and needs to be replaced.

Bordeaux En Primeur: Yielding to Merlot

Yields are down. A common colloquialism among many in the supply side of the wine world. Since wine crops are so measurable, it is not just out there to garner sympathy—it is usually a meaningful component to quality of a vintage and the marketplace for the wine. But low yields are a symptom that can be ascribed to many different issues, good and bad. We take a look at what it means for the 2022 vintage.

The State of Bordeaux

Travelling to the 2021 En Primeur tastings is a study in contrasts—while the vintage we’re about to taste (2021) is largely defined by its multitude of challenges, the past half-decade is full of brilliant wines that speak to the precision and refinement of modern Bordeaux. So, before we even delve into the 2021s, it is worth looking back and putting this run in perspective.

Bordeaux 2019: A Whirlwind Campaign

All the chips were stacked against Bordeaux being able to pull off an En Primeur campaign. If prices were less than astounding,there would have been no chance to even get off the starting block. Then Pontet-Canet got a potential 100-point review from Wine Advocate, dropped their price by 30%…

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