K&L is thrilled to welcome the distinguished wine legend, Jancis Robinson, MW OBE, for a once-in-a-lifetime event series in San Francisco in March 2024.
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It's easily the wine world's most famous red grape, and while most wine lovers have a general conception of what constitutes a "typical" Cabernet, a deep dive into the history and diversity of this incredible varietal quickly reveals that there's no such thing as typical Cab. From Bordeaux to Napa to the farthest reaches of the Southern Hemisphere, Cab thrives and offers wine enthusiasts nearly unlimited opportunities for exploration, so we invite you to join us a trip around the wide world of Cabernet Sauvignon.
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In July of 2022 I moved with my family to Napa Valley. Despite the Bay Bridge commute testing me at times, the move has been incredible for getting to know the U.S.’s most iconic wine region much more intimately. Observing from afar, it’s easy to lump all of Napa Valley together as an adult “Disneyland” of homogenous, over-priced, over-hyped wines with little sense of place. However, when you get to spend lots of time here—the more you explore, the more back roads you turn down, the more vineyards you walk—it becomes increasingly clear that despite the commercial success and sometimes inflated price points, Napa Valley is undeniably a phenomenal, distinctive, and radically diverse place to grow grapes.
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Cabernet Sauvignon’s origins are believed to stretch back to France’s Aquitaine region in the 1600s. But it wasn’t until the late 1990s that U.C. Davis researchers determined through genetic testing that this beloved grape is a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Sequencing the genome in 2007 unlocked even more valuable insights into the origin, breeding, and characteristics of one of the most beloved cultivars on the planet.
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Cabernet Sauvignon has a long history in Australia dating back to the 1830s when it was introduced by Scottish immigrant and wine pioneer James Busby. Though a hardy and disease-resistant cultivar, early experimental plantings failed due to poor vineyard locations and lack of knowledge. It didn’t take long to get it right—the oldest surviving Cabernet Sauvignon vines are believed to be Penfold’s Kalimna Block 42, planted in the Barossa Valley in 1888. Today it is the second most-planted wine grape in Oz at 25,000 ha. Here are a few world-class renditions of one of Australia’s flagship varieties:
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If Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of red wine, and Bordeaux is the king of wine, doesn’t it follow that Bordeaux is the king of Cabernet Sauvignon? Of course, I am prejudiced as I have been collecting Bordeaux since 1971. Yes, I also have some California Cabernets, but 95% of my cellar is red Bordeaux—vintages ranging from 1918 to 2019.
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What wine is more romantic than a delicious Sauternes? Bordeaux’s infamous dessert wine is versatile enough to accompany so many different activities and foods. They are good as an apéritif when they have fine acidity and not too much sweetness. Of course, with foie gras, they are perfect, as are they with a fruit dessert or custard or flan. Just no chocolate please—save that for after Sauternes with your Port. Here are a few suggestions that are in stock and a few superb pre-arrival offerings (you’ll be ahead of the game for next year).
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Château Vitallis is in the town of Solutré surrounded by Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards in southern Burgundy’s Mâcon region. They can trace their origins back to 1835 when the Dutron family took over the domaine. The same family is still at the helm, with Denis Dutron in the driver’s seat and his son Maxime managing the winemaking responsibilities. They have an envious selection of vineyard holdings scattered across appellations focusing mainly on Pouilly-Fuissé.
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A visit to Domaine Paul Pernot is always a treat. Often, you will be welcomed by the man himself. Paul Pernot has run the domaine since the 1950s and is easily in his 90s, but he’s still spry. Speaking very little English, he is often assisted by his two sons who both are heavily involved in the running of the domaine.
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Before we know it, we'll be knee-deep in en primeur with the 2023 vintage. But in the calm before the storm, we're taking a good look at the current state of Bordeaux with K&L Bordeaux Buyer Clyde Beffa, Jr. and K&L Key Accounts Manager Ryan Moses.
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For the best collectible sweet-spot buys, Léoville-Barton, Rauzan-Segla, Domaine de Chevalier, and La Gaffelière are right at the top of my list.
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One of the beautiful things about Bordeaux is its ability to change and evolve over quite a long bit of time. Collectors love it for its ageability—but we believe you don't have to have a deep cellar in order to appreciate the joys of aged Bordeaux. Our many connections in the region help us to source bottles with excellent provenance (meaning they've been perfectly aged) at excellent prices. Check out Bordeaux Buyer Clyde Beffa's roundup of aged in-stock beauties, ready to drink!
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