Posts in France
Muscadet: Loire Valley's Freshest White Is Still Under the Radar

Like what happened in Beaujolais with its crus, Muscadet began highlighting specific geological zones capable of producing wines with aging potential. The first three—Clisson, Le Pallet, and Gorges—set the tone, and now there are ten official crus. These wines are aged longer on the lees (usually 17–30 months, depending on the cru), and they offer a completely different experience from the classic sur lie style. The best of them are structured, mineral, and textured—serious wines hiding behind a humble name. 

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What I'm Excited About This Week: Loire Valley Edition

This week Keith Mabry, who probably has one of the most diverse buying portfolios at K&L, poured some amazing wines from the Loire Valley for us. We tasted 26 different wines this morning, done at the usual breakneck pace due to the 45 minutes we have to do the tasting. Now, while I say 45 minutes, we're definitely able to go back to the wines through the day and sometimes even the next day and retaste. This lets us see how they're evolving, so our time with the wine is not merely confined to that quick little jaunt in the morning. 

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What I'm Excited About This Week

One of the best, and sometimes most challenging, things about working at K&L is our weekly staff tastings. These aren't pleasure cruises that we calmly sail through, taking our time and leisurely enjoying each wine as we ponder possible pairings or accompaniments. These are gauntlets, tests of will and endurance that we charge through, tasting typically 20+ products in just 45 minutes each week. However, from these tastings I always gain amazing insight in that weekly category, and I always get super excited about some of the wines we tasted—and, gosh, I just wanted to share them with you.

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Anthony Girard – A Sancerre Original

Anthony Girard remains one of my favorite "characters" in Sancerre. Years ago, he struck out on his own, leaving the family domaine to create La Clef du Récit in the southern part of the appellation. The name, which translates to “the key to the story,” is intriguingly ambiguous—there’s no castle here, despite the imagery. But maybe it’s more about the keys to his own imaginative mind-palace… which brings us back to that "character" part.

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“Overall quality has never been more consistent.” Discover Bordeaux’s next chapter… 

From top-performing sub-$50 values to cellar-worthy icons from benchmark vintages, this Bordeaux roundup showcases the full depth and diversity of the region. You'll find Left Bank stars from 2016 and 2019, rare mature releases, a compelling new discovery in Bordeaux Blanc, and a powerful case for the greatness of 2022. We've also released our 2024 Bordeaux Vintage Report, highlighting the most recent growing season's challenges and charms. There’s never been a better time to rediscover Bordeaux’s dynamic landscape—both on the page and in your glass.

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2024 Vintage Report and Newly Arrived Bordeaux

While the 2024 Bordeaux vintage had its challenges, we went to taste and are excited to share our annual vintage report. The '24s reflect both the difficulties of the year and today’s complex market, but beyond that, we truly believe it’s a great time to rediscover Bordeaux—or find new favorites. Several recently arrived containers have brought in some of the region’s top values and collectibles, and overall quality has never been more consistent. There’s a wealth of world-class wines under $50, each showing remarkable character and a strong sense of place.

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Louis Roederer Master Class with Frédéric Rouzaud

It is an incredibly rare privilege to learn from Frédéric Rouzaud, the seventh generation of the Roederer family to run Champagne Louis Roederer. Yesterday, at Selby’s restaurant—the Michelin one-star restaurant that we share a wall with here in Redwood City—Lilia, Cinnamon, and I were treated to an incredible masterclass led by Mr. Rouzaud in person. The lineup of wines, the pairing with caviar and oysters, and his unique insights into his family’s Champagne made for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

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Malescot St-Exupéry: Genuine Wines That Over-Deliver

Malescot has been wowing clients and critics alike for decades, and for good reason. To me, it strikes the ideal balance between accessibility and seriousness: it’s all too easy to pull the cork now, but patience is richly rewarded. And while the style leans a bit more flamboyant than some of its Margaux peers, the wines are always integrated, thoughtful, and beautifully made.

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Charles Baur: The Maestro of Alsatian Wine Values

To me, Alsatian wines feel like a great novel that has been forgotten on a dusty bookshelf for far too long. The novel itself is timeless and perfectly written, yet it has gone overlooked for no particularly good reason, in favor of newer, trendier books. That in a nutshell is a perfect metaphor for the wines from Alsace. These wines are seriously good—and the current releases are easily the best that have ever been made from this region, especially since most of the producers are farming at least organically if not biodynamically. There are so many great producers fashioning world-class wines. Even better: their prices tend to be a mere fraction of what top producers from other wines regions charge. That fact may lead you to think these are not substantial wines, but this would be a mistake. Many of the world’s greatest Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Sylvaner come from Alsace.

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Krug’s Exquisite Craftsmanship Shines in Current Releases

This month, the K&L staff was treated to a first-of-its-kind Krug tasting seminar conducted by Krug’s Director of Education, Julie Boilleau, and Director of Business Development for the Americas, Louis Henrion, whom we Zoomed in direct from Reims, along with Moët-Hennessey’s Director of Northern California, Omar Martin, and Associate Brand Manager for Krug & Ruinart, Allison Stackhouse.

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A Hollywood Premier: 2012 Billecart Salmon “NFB”

Last night I was lucky enough to be invited to the release party of the 2012 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart" NFB Brut Champagne $199.99 96WA 95VN by the seventh generation of the Billecart family, Mathieu Roland-Billecart. The party was thrown at Larrabee Studios in North Hollywood, down an obscure alley in an unassuming part of town—but what a place! Everyone from Michael Jackson to Metallica has recorded there, and the sound-dampened walls felt like they were full of stories. It was an unforgettable evening, and the magic of the NFB has added another legend to this legendary place. It was a great chance to reconnect with friends in the wine world, and especially to spend time with the team from Billecart—Mathieu, Geoffrey, and Clément.

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Ancient Vines, Fresh Voices: Europe’s Island Wine Revolution

For millennia the Mediterranean and Aegean islands were way-stations for traders and conquerors, each wave planting vines in their wake. Today those same outposts are buzzing with fresh energy. From Santorini’s volcano to Sicily’s lava soils, wind-lashed Corsica, and sun-soaked Sardinia, a new generation is pairing ancient bush vines with precision farming and low-intervention cellars—yielding mineral-charged whites, perfumed reds, and inventive blends that rival Europe’s mainland classics while staying refreshingly affordable and true to place.

Inside: Assyrtiko’s meteoric rise, under-the-radar Greek whites, high-altitude Xinomavro, Etna’s fiery reds, and Sardinia & Corsica’s boundary-breaking blends. Stock up and taste how brightly these island stars shine.

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