Celebrating the Top 10 Most Memorable Champagnes of 2023

This year has marked my 23rd in my job as Champagne Buyer here at K&L, and I feel lucky to say that it was one of the best for memorable Champagnes. This list could have been much longer than just ten, as I have been treated to so many noteworthy wines over the last 12 months. I have noticed three themes for 2023: large bottles (magnums and jeroboams) account for about one-third of the list, as do pairings with tinned fish, and half the bottles were not vintage dated. The flexibility that blending across time gives the Champenois is not just for basics—a skilled chef de cave can make magic with multiple vintages.

Tasting Appointments: Oakridge’s Henk Vineyard

I’ve spent years writing about the Henk Vineyard wines, so it was difficult not to get a little caught up when Georgina’s truck pulled onto the steep ridgeline that separates the north-facing Pinot and Chardonnay blocks. Henk vineyard is named for the former vineyard manager and property owner who leased the vineyard to Oakridge almost six years ago. As part of their local vineyard series, Oakridge has found a handful of sites throughout the Upper Yarra that produce fruit of exceptional quality–and Henk is my absolute favorite.

Champagne Winners for a Holiday Season to Remember

It's that time of year when our Champagne program shines, and this year we have more direct-import standouts than ever to make your holidays sparkle. Recent reloads from a trio of DI favorites will have long-time fans stocking up, while the iconic Billecart-Salmon's current releases offer holiday luxury at nearly any price point. Finally, Champagne buyer Gary Westby's "boots on the ground" approach pays off once again with a pair of new direct-import additions that are sure to garner legions of fans once the wines make it to your table.

New Champagne Discovery: Cordoin Didierlaurent

Even though I have been travelling to Champagne two to three times every year for 23 years, there is still so much to discover. This May, one of the biggest discoveries I have had in a long time came in the sleepy Marne River town of Port-a-Binson at Champagne Cordoin Didierlaurent. There I met Pierre-Emanuel Cordoin, vine grower and winemaker for this 21-acre estate and tasted his fantastic wines.

Champagne Petiau: Trépail Super Star

We have a new direct-import producer in stock, from the famous perle blanche de la Montagne de Reims—the white pearl of the mountain of Reims—the 1er Cru of Trépail... Up until now, most of their sales have been at the cellar door in France, and this is the first time the wines have been available in the U.S. Since we buy direct from Lorène Petiau, the prices are amazing for our K&L Champagne fans.

Billecart-Salmon’s Stunning Champagnes Are Perfect for the Holidays

Established in 1818 with the marriage of Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon, Champagne Billecart-Salmon is perched at the pinnacle of Champagne’s Grand Marques. Located along the Marne River in the renowned village of Marieul-sur-Aÿ, it is still family-owned and operated 205 years later. Seventh-generation vigneron Mathieu Roland-Billecart is now at the helm alongside sixth-generation mentors Antoine Roland-Billecart, Deputy General Manager, and Jean and François Roland-Billecart.

Champagne Aspasie: Always Number One in Our Hearts

If my memory serves me correctly, we are approaching our 20th year since initiating our very successful small-estate Champagne import program, care of Gary Westby! It was an immediate hit, and to this day it still surprises me how well the wines beautifully balance high quality and extreme value. As many of our long-time customers know, the nonvintage bottling from Champagne Ariston Aspasie was our first direct import for this program. Paul Vincent Aristan and his wife Caroline have been with us from the start.

Thanksgiving Champagne!

When I think of being thankful this time of year, one of the first things that pops into my mind is my gratitude to the farmers who feed us and grow the grapes for the wines that make our lives so much better. The first person who comes to mind is Paul-Vincent Ariston, the boss at Champagne Aspasie in the tiny village of Brouillet. He is one of the hardest working men I know, and one of the most patient. At home this year we will be starting off our Thanksgiving festivities with his excellent Ariston Aspasie "Réserve" Brut Champagne $34.99.

The Best Bang for Your Buck in Burgundy

This week's newsletter is all about Burgundy value. If you thought the concept of bang for the buck in Burgundy was a thing of the past, think again. We've made it our mission to do the hard work of unearthing the region's hidden-gem regions and unsung domaines in order to make this category accessible to the widest possible audience.

The Burgundy Wine Values Hiding in Plain Sight

Many of the lesser-known appellations in Burgundy have been making huge improvements in quality over the last 10+ years, and I’ve been travelling to these regions each year to find the hidden gems. Let’s take a deeper look at the Mâcon, Beaujolais, and the Côte Chalonnaise. These are all regions that are absolutely bursting with amazing values.

Meet Our New Chablis Winery, Robert Goulley

Wines from Chablis are currently seeing a surge in popularity. The problem with that is, like much of Burgundy, Chablis has seen a decrease in production thanks to hot vintages and then a disastrously cold, wet, and fraught vintage in 2021. We are always searching for new producers to import directly, but they have to pass our high standards at K&L to make the cut for our shelves. Fortunately for all of us Chablis lovers, Robert Goulley aced the exam.

Domaine Renaud: Setting the Bar High in the Mâcon

The Mâcon is just a quick 90-minute drive south from the town of Beaune, which essentially functions as the mid-point of Burgundy and divides the Côte de Nuits (north) from the Côte de Beaune (south). Once you arrive in the Mâcon you are greeted with rolling hillsides, quaint small villages, and a farmer-driven culture of winemaking. The Mâcon is home to approachable, ready-to-drink, and affordable wine values, which makes it incredibly important—and rare—in the Burgundian ecosystem. Domaine Renaud has been fashioning some of the best values to be found in Mâcon from an array of vineyards scattered throughout the many appellations located within the Mâconnais.

K&L Wine Merchants

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