Olivier Krug Debuts the 2008 Krug Clos du Mesnil

This past Monday, I was invited to lunch by Olivier Krug, who was visiting California with his team for the debut of the 2008 Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne. We went to Spruce, in the beautiful Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, and had a great time catching up while enjoying some excellent food and unforgettable Champagne. To call this 2008 release anticipated would be a gigantic understatement—it is one of the very last from this vintage, which I consider the best of my career, and from one of the most important vineyard sites in Champagne.

Holiday Buying Made Easy: Our Top Picks in Nearly Every Category

Today's Newsletter is the final installment of 2022, and we're ringing out the year with a bang. Our buyers have all pitched in to compile a wide-ranging selection of holiday winners for every palate, price tier, and festive occasion. Without further ado, we'd like to wish you Happy Holidays and all the best over the next few weeks and into the New Year.

A Fitting Homage: Damien Hugot

Anyone who has met Damien Hugot, either in Champagne or here at one of our tastings, knows that he is full of a good time, and full of lust for life. He saves his serious side for his vineyard, which he tends like a garden, and for his work in his immaculately clean winery. This year he released a brand new cuvée, the Damien Hugot "Hommage 1921" Extra Brut Champagne, which is an homage to his great grandfather, who started making his own wine south of Épernay back in 1921.

Thanksgiving Stars to Elevate Your Holiday Feast

Today's Newsletter gets us in the holiday mood with a truly all-encompassing look at our absolute favorite picks for pairing with a large and diverse holiday feast. Our best-in-the-business team of buyers has you covered with hand-picked selections that will shine in any holiday occasion, from the most casual, warm-hearted get-togethers to the most intricate and luxurious affairs.

Derot-Delugny: The Best Deal in 2012 Vintage Champagne

This past May, I traveled to the far west of Champagne, to the lovely, tiny village of Crouttes-sur-Marne, to visit brother-and-sister team Laurent and Claire at Champagne Derot-Delugny. They are one of the oldest grower producers in the western Marne Valley, having sold Champagne in bottle since 1929. This long tradition has given them the gift of patience and the ability to sell vintage Champagne at 10 years old, the 2012 that is the main subject of this article.

Champagne for Every Occasion, from Taco Tuesday to Thanksgiving

Champagne Buyer Gary Westby and his team have assembled a lineup of Champagnes that range from everyday values to the height of luxury. No matter the occasion, we have a Champagne to pair with it!

Champagne Summit #1: The Billecart Dinner

Last night, Clément Calleja of Champagne Billecart-Salmon kicked off our annual staff Champagne Summit with a big bang. He hosted a comprehensive tasting of their line paired with sushi from Kanpai at Cinnamon’s and my home in Menlo Park. The wines were unforgettable.

150 Years of Champagne Launois!

This June, I traveled back to Champagne to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Champagne Launois. It was an honor to be invited. The party was unforgettable, hosted by no less than four generations of the family at their beautiful château just outside of Mesnil. There we spent the afternoon tasting, eating, and drinking… a six hour Champenois lunch!

A Mind-Blowing Vertical at Aspasie

Usually, when I arrive in Brouillet, we do an extensive vin clair tasting of the last year’s harvest together. Since there was no 2021 to taste, Paul announced that instead we would do a retrospective of better years… And what a lineup he poured! This tasting was a true career highlight for me—each wine was great, and fabulous proof of the longevity that the great terroir of Brouillet is capable of producing in its wines.

A Great 2008 from Billecart

At the end of May, I was lucky enough to be hosted at Champagne Billecart-Salmon in Mareuil by none other than cellarmaster Florent Nys. We have known each other for many years, but I hadn’t had the chance to sit down with him since before the pandemic. He invited me into the new reception area at Billecart, and poured quite the tasting.

Lamoureux—Champagne Three Miles From Burgundy!

Today I traveled to the very far south of Champagne, in the Aube department to visit my friend Vivien Lamoureux at Champagne J.J. Lamoureux in the beautiful village of Les Riceys. This is the southern tip of Champagne and only three short miles from the departmental border with Burgundy. Here the soil is not the pure white chalk of the Marne area, but rather nearly the same Kimmeridgian clay as in Chablis. Notably, Pinot Noir is king in this area, as Chardonnay buds too early and is at high risk for frost on all but the steepest and most perfectly east-facing sites.

La Montre est Bonne

My new French phrase for my first week in Champagne is “la montre est bonne,” an expression that means “everything looks good right now” for a good vintage in 2022. After the disastrously low yields of 2021, the generous set on the vines now is a site for sore eyes. The vineyards in Champagne are far ahead of schedule, with flowering happening as I type in many places, and the flowers are already here in Sacy, where I took the picture below. A big harvest would do a lot to stabilize Champagne, because currently stocks are low due to a big increase in global demand, the horribly short 2021 harvest, and the self-inflicted wound of tight yield limits in 2020.

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